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PHYSIOLOGICAL AREA
Medicina dello Sport 2021 September;74(3):406-19
DOI: 10.23736/S0025-7826.21.03891-6
Copyright © 2021 EDIZIONI MINERVA MEDICA
language: English, Italian
Effects of system training on finger-grip strength and endurance in sport climbers
Gamze CEYHAN 1, Tolga AKSIT 2 ✉, Faik VURAL 2, Rana VAROL 3, Damla E. KOSE 4, Zeki OZKOL 3
1 Department of Coaching Education, School of Physical Education and Sports, University of Istanbul Gelisim, Istanbul, Turkey; 2 Department of Coaching Education, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Ege, Izmir, Turkey; 3 Institute of Health Sciences, Sport and Health Science, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Ege, Izmir, Turkey; 4 Department of Physical Education, Istanbul Technical University, Istanbul, Turkey
BACKGROUND: This study aims to determine the effect of a 4-week system training (ST) regimen on finger-grip strength and endurance in sport climbers. The ST method works on improving the main grip types in climbing by training in an isolated and symmetrical way.
METHODS: In this study, 24 recreational climbers were selected as participants and randomly allocated to an ST group (N.=12) or a control group (CON, N.=12) for the 4-week-long training regimen. The isometric maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) test using a climbing-specific apparatus was performed to determine the maximum finger flexor strength for the dominant (D) and non-dominant (ND) hands. Intermittent finger hang (IFH) and dead-hang (DH) tests were performed on three different grips by using a hangboard to assess finger flexor endurance before and after the training sessions.
RESULTS: A significant increase was observed in the MVC for the ST group (20.1%, P<0.05), but not in the CON group (6.2%, P=0.24). The ST group showed significant increases for all parameters in endurance tests (IFH, 20.9 s; DHcrimp, 9.3 s; DHpinch, 7.1 s; DHslope, 11.2 s P<0.05).
CONCLUSIONS: The 4-week ST regimen is a highly effective training method for improving grip strength and endurance in sport climbing.
KEY WORDS: Athletic performance; Endurance training; Fingers