PHYSIOLOGICAL AREA   

Medicina dello Sport 2021 September;74(3):406-19

DOI: 10.23736/S0025-7826.21.03891-6

Copyright © 2021 EDIZIONI MINERVA MEDICA

language: English, Italian

Effects of system training on finger-grip strength and endurance in sport climbers

Gamze CEYHAN ¹, Tolga AKSIT ² ✉, Faik VURAL ², Rana VAROL ³, Damla E. KOSE ⁴, Zeki OZKOL ³

¹ Department of Coaching Education, School of Physical Education and Sports, University of Istanbul Gelisim, Istanbul, Turkey; ² Department of Coaching Education, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Ege, Izmir, Turkey; ³ Institute of Health Sciences, Sport and Health Science, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Ege, Izmir, Turkey; ⁴ Department of Physical Education, Istanbul Technical University, Istanbul, Turkey

BACKGROUND: This study aims to determine the effect of a 4-week system training (ST) regimen on finger-grip strength and endurance in sport climbers. The ST method works on improving the main grip types in climbing by training in an isolated and symmetrical way.
METHODS: In this study, 24 recreational climbers were selected as participants and randomly allocated to an ST group (N.=12) or a control group (CON, N.=12) for the 4-week-long training regimen. The isometric maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) test using a climbing-specific apparatus was performed to determine the maximum finger flexor strength for the dominant (D) and non-dominant (ND) hands. Intermittent finger hang (IFH) and dead-hang (DH) tests were performed on three different grips by using a hangboard to assess finger flexor endurance before and after the training sessions.
RESULTS: A significant increase was observed in the MVC for the ST group (20.1%, P<0.05), but not in the CON group (6.2%, P=0.24). The ST group showed significant increases for all parameters in endurance tests (IFH, 20.9 s; DHcrimp, 9.3 s; DHpinch, 7.1 s; DHslope, 11.2 s P<0.05).
CONCLUSIONS: The 4-week ST regimen is a highly effective training method for improving grip strength and endurance in sport climbing.

KEY WORDS: Athletic performance; Endurance training; Fingers