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THE JOURNAL OF SPORTS MEDICINE AND PHYSICAL FITNESS
A Journal on Applied Physiology, Biomechanics, Preventive Medicine,
Sports Medicine and Traumatology, Sports Psychology
Indexed/Abstracted in: Chemical Abstracts, CINAHL, Current Contents/Clinical Medicine, EMBASE, PubMed/MEDLINE, Science Citation Index Expanded (SciSearch), Scopus
Impact Factor 1,111
ORIGINAL ARTICLES EXERCISE PHYSIOLOGY AND BIOMECHANICS
The Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness 2011 September;51(3):417-25
Sport-specific power assessment for rock climbing
Draper N. 1, Dickson T. 1, Blackwell G. 1, Priestley S. 1, Fryer S. 1, Marshall H. 1, Shearman J. 2, Hamlin M. 3, Winter D. 1, Ellis G. 1 ✉
1 School of Sciences and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand;
2 Applied Sciences and Allied Health Christchurch Polytechnic Institute of Technology, Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand;
3 Environment, Society and Design Lincoln University, Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand
AIM: The popularity of rock climbing has resulted in a growing research base for the sport. However, at present there is a lack of sport-specific measures of performance in the field. The aim of this study was to examine the use of the powerslap test as a sport specific power measure.
METHODS: The participants in this study were categorised into four different ability groups (novice, intermediate, advanced and elite) based on self reported lead grade. Two separate experiments were conducted to determine validity and reliability. The powerslap test was conducted on a revolution board with two variations – wide and narrow grip, for both sides of the body. The test started with the climber hanging at full extension from two holds from which a pull up movement was made releasing one hand to slap a scaled score board above.
RESULTS:There was a significant relationship between powerslap scores and climbing ability (Left Wide: r=0.7, P<0.0005; right wide: r=0.69, P<0.0005; left narrow: r=0.73, P<0.0005; right narrow: r =0.72, P<0.0005). Further to this, scores on the powerslap narrow test were significantly differentiated by climber ability (LEFT: F(3,37)=15.74, P<0.0005; right: F(3,37)=12.16, P<0.0005). Limits of agreement and intra-class correlation indicated that the powerslap test is a reliable performance measure.
CONCLUSION:According to the present findings the narrow grip variation of the powerslap test is a useful sport-specific power test that is related to climbing performance.