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A Journal on Sports Medicine

Official Journal of the Italian Sports Medicine Federation
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Medicina dello Sport 2005 June;58(2):107-12


language: Italian

Metabolic energy sources for rock-climbing

Rodio A. 1, Quattrini F. M. 1, Fattorini L. 2, Geri M. 1, Ballesio M. 2, Marchetti M. 2

1 Dipartimento di Scienze Motorie e della Salute Facoltà di Scienze Motorie, Università degli Studi di Cassino, Cassino (Frosinone); 2 Scuola di Specializzazione in Medicina dello Sport, Università degli Studi di Roma “La Sapienza”, Roma


Aim. Evaluate the lactacid and alactacid energy contribution for the rock-climbing muscular work. Fast and slow components of the Post Exercise Oxygen Consumption (fEPOC e sEPOC) were assessed and the corresponding energy (EfEPOC and EsEPOC) were compared with the aerobic and lactacid energy output (Elactate).
Methods. Novices (N; 4 males and 2 females) and experts (E; 5 males and 1 female) were examined. N were recently initiated; E: have acquired the experience over a number of years. In all subjects were assessed maximum oxygen consumption (V.O2max) and ventilatory threshold (V.O2TH) in laboratory. V.O2 was also measured during rock face climbing and during recovery trough a portable metabolimeter. Lactate accumulation was measured during 10 min recovery.
Results. During climbing V.O2 attained at values near the V.O2TH in both groups. The aerobic energy expenditure during climbing was greater in N than in E (3.1 kJ·kg-1 vs 1.6 kJ·kg-1). During the recovery phase the EfEPOC was equal in both groups (0.39 kJ·kg-1), conversely EsEPOC and Elactate were higher in N than in E (0.5 kJ·kg-1 vs 0.34 kJ·kg-1; 0.22 kJ·kg-1 vs 0.03 kJ·kg-1 respectively).
Conclusion. Assuming that the EfEPOC correspond to the phospho-creatine resinthesis we can conclude this process is equal in both groups and the EfEPOC was 10 times lesser of aerobic energy output. Conversely the Elactate was 10 times greater in N than E. The excess post exercise oxygen consumption no-lactate dependent was equal in both groups.

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